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# Dirt 1 (2007) Game Guide | ||
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## Introduction | ||
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Dirt is a off-road racing game by Codemasters, a UK studio. Released in 2007 for PC, PS3, xbox, XXX. | ||
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## Background | ||
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Colin mcRae dies in 200x | ||
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This is the 1st Codemasters game to have 3D menus in 2007. They would go on to expand to 3D text with GRID in 2008. | ||
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DIRT differs from previous games in the series as the 1st to include other types of cars & racing. Previously, the CMR game were focused on Rally, Crossover, and Rally circuit with road cars. But DIRT expands to Rallycross, raid, hillclimb with the addition of buggies and trucks. This could be seen as integrating the Race Driver Grid philosophy of multiple types of race into the CMR franchise. As a result, rally has been removed from the RDG/GRID series altogether. | ||
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This was mostly to positive acclaim. A small number of people were probably not that hjappy with the change in direction ofthe franchise, and Dirt 2 would shift to a more rally-oriented world tour philosophy. After Dirt 3, the series effectively splits off into 2 parts, Dirt which continues the mixed-type racing, and DIrt Rally which focuses on the classic Rally of the previous games. | ||
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## Addons | ||
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There is a good reason why I'm discussing addons early in this document, cuz it's almost essential to gameplay IMO. | ||
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## Patch | ||
You should be running patch >= 1.2 since it allows moving savegames across different computers (if I'm understanding it correctly) . The way that it was phrased in the patch notes is a bit awkward. | ||
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Patch level will affect use of trainers. | ||
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## Trainers | ||
There are trainers for this game which allow you to cheat. But it is recommend NOT to cheat, since you can measure & improve your skills. | ||
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## Utilities | ||
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GFX utilities to remove the bloom/hdr/blur. Makes racing easier. | ||
Reduce unrealistic strong brakes | ||
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## Car setup | ||
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The CPU will probably be using a stock setup so this is your edge over the CPU. | ||
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Transmission: I suggest a shirt 2/5 ratio to get better acceleration. 1/5 is probably too short and you will hit your top speed, allowing the CPU to take over. | ||
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Suspension: If you're in anything bigger than a sedan, you want 0.1 or so as your ride height, which will make your vehicle handle better, especially if it's a truck. | ||
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AWD: I suggest a 50/50 or 40/60 back bias. | ||
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## General tips | ||
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YOu will see this advice a lot. Drive to 90% of your ability. If you drive to all of your ability, you will drive too fast & make mistakes, losing time. | ||
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I drive fast on corners 6-5, and maybe ease off the gas at tighter corners. Don't take big shortcuts. You may be tempted, but many of the off-course surfaces significantly slow you down (for safety reasons IRL), which will actually make your time longer. | ||
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## Event | ||
Career is where you earn money by winning events. You use this money to buy cars & liveries. | ||
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These choices are based on my skill level. | ||
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For live events such as rallycross & raid, pick medium/Amateur. When you get to the front, you can block CPU cars. But remember to still build a lead, lest they overtake you at the finish line. | ||
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For timed events like rally, crossover, pick medium-low/clubman. You can't block cars & it will be more challenging. | ||
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DIRT uses a new engine called neon to take advantage of the new multi-CPU and graphics capabilities of next-gen consoles. | ||
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## Vehicles | ||
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To repeat what I said in car setup, if you're in anything bigger than a sedan, you want to lower your ride height. | ||
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### 4WD | ||
1. Citroen C4 concept, X: It's short & grippy, but this car is fast, so you can recover from slow corners for a crossover. You'll want to buy this ccar for its performance & it's needed for a career event. | ||
2. Misubishi Lancer Evo 9, Ralliart: This is a fun car to drive since the wheelbase is long, you can slide it around corners. Except it has a tendancy to slow & spin out as well, which is not so good for your times. You can buy this car aorund tier 1-2. (this was my 2nd "favorite" car, but actually something I *do* want to drive) | ||
3. Fiat Punto, default: You get this car for free & you'll need it to complete many early events (so many that it was my 1st "favorite" car even though I'd rather be driving something else). It might understeer? I can't remember. | ||
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### FWD | ||
1. Citroen C2 S1600: Probably the best FWD in looks & performance, but being a FWD it understeers | ||
2. Renault Clio: You get this for free, & you'll need it to complete some early events. | ||
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### Classic | ||
1. Toyota Celica GT4, Castrol: | ||
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### Big Rig | ||
1. Kenworth T2000: This truck's handling is more vague than cars in NFSHP2 | ||
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### Rally Raid T1 | ||
1. Mitsubishi Triton L200, default: You get this for free. It's not the fastest, but with smart driving & setup, you can beat the CPU. | ||
### Rally Raid T4 | ||
1. Kamaz 4911, default: You get this for free. Again, it's not the fastest, but with smart driving & setup, you can beat the CPU. | ||
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## Tracks | ||
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### Australia | ||
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Fast & Narrow. We've come a long way since the CMR2 days where a bush could be made of titanium, but you still want to avoid them. | ||
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### Japan | ||
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It's always raining in Japan in CMR3. It's not raining in CMRD, but it's just after the rain. Cue $this. | ||
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## Germany | ||
Long straights, but with tough to see corners marked by barrels etc. Not nice to drive at. | ||
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## Italy | ||
Italy sortove replaced Greece in CMRD. It's sorta the same too, gravel roads with generous margins. |
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